Does Viscose Shrink and How to Wash a Viscose Dress

You washed a viscose dress once, on a normal cycle, and it came out a size smaller with a hemline that now sits well above the knee. So does viscose shrink? Yes, often more than cotton, and usually on the very first wash. The good news is that it is predictable, preventable and, in many cases, partly reversible.

I have washed, ruined and rescued more viscose dresses than I like to admit. This is what I have learned about why it happens and how to stop it.

What viscose actually is

Viscose, also sold as rayon, is made from wood pulp. The cellulose is dissolved, pushed through fine holes and turned back into fibre. That makes it neither a natural fibre like linen nor a plastic like polyester. It sits in between, which is why it drapes like silk, breathes like cotton and costs far less than either.

It is also why it behaves strangely in water. Viscose fibres absorb a lot of moisture and swell as they do. When wet, the fabric can lose 30 to 50 percent of its strength, and the fibres become loose enough to relax and pull inwards as they dry. Heat and agitation make that shrinkage permanent.

How much does viscose shrink?

On a careful cold wash, most woven viscose shrinks around 2 to 3 percent the first time. A warm machine wash followed by a tumble dryer can take that to 8 or 10 percent. On a dress 100 centimetres long, that is the difference between losing 2 centimetres of hem and losing 10.

Weave matters too. Viscose crepe, with its tightly twisted yarns, tends to shrink most, sometimes dramatically. Viscose challis and twill are steadier. Newer versions such as EcoVero behave much like standard viscose in the wash, while modal and lyocell are related fibres that are more stable when wet. If you are weighing these up, our honest look at whether Tencel is good for dresses covers lyocell in detail.

How to wash a viscose dress without shrinking it

1. Read the label, then check the lining. A viscose dress with a polyester lining needs gentle treatment for both, since the two shrink at different rates and can make the hem twist.
2. Use cold or lukewarm water, never above 30C. Hand washing in a basin is safest. Swish the dress for two or three minutes rather than rubbing it.
3. Choose a mild detergent. A liquid for delicates or wool works well. Use about half the amount you would for a normal load.
4. If you use a machine, turn the dress inside out, put it in a mesh laundry bag and pick a delicate or hand wash programme with a spin of 600 rpm or lower.
5. Never wring it. Press the water out gently, then roll the dress in a clean towel and press again.
6. Dry flat or on a padded hanger. Reshape seams and the hem while damp, and keep it out of direct sun, which can fade darker prints.
7. Skip the dryer completely. This one rule prevents most viscose disasters.

To iron, turn the dress inside out and use a medium setting with a pressing cloth. Viscose can turn shiny where a hot iron sits directly on it, and that shine does not come out.

The "dry clean only" label is not always the final word

Many viscose dresses carry a dry clean only label, and the usual advice is to obey it without question. I take a more nuanced view. Manufacturers often add that label to protect themselves, because they cannot predict how every customer will wash the garment. For a simple unlined viscose shift or wrap dress, a careful cold hand wash usually works perfectly well, and it saves you around 10 to 15 pounds per clean.

That said, there are times I would listen to the label. Structured dresses with interfacing, tailored shoulders or bonded seams can bubble and warp in water. Crepe viscose is unpredictable enough that I would only hand wash it after testing. If you decide to try, test first: wet a hidden area such as the inside of a hem allowance, let it dry and measure it against a dry section. If it has puckered or shrunk visibly, take the dress to a cleaner.

How to fix a shrunken viscose dress

You can often recover most of the lost length, though rarely all of it. This method has worked for me on several dresses:

1. Fill a basin with lukewarm water and add 1 tablespoon of hair conditioner or baby shampoo per litre.
2. Soak the dress for 30 minutes. The conditioner helps the fibres relax.
3. Without rinsing, press out the water and lay the dress flat on a towel.
4. Gently stretch it back towards its original measurements, working a little at a time along the length and the width.
5. Pin or weigh the edges and let it dry flat. Repeat once if needed.

Expect to win back perhaps half of the shrinkage. If the dress is still too short, remember that cost per wear rewards keeping it in use, so think about wearing it over trousers or as a tunic. Our guide to calculating cost per wear before you buy a dress explains why that matters.

Buying viscose with shrinkage in mind

When you shop, feel the weight. Heavier viscose, around 120 to 150 grams per square metre, tends to be more stable than thin, floaty versions. If you are between sizes, the larger one gives you a small safety margin. And if you want a breathable summer dress that tolerates a normal wash, compare it with the cotton options in our guide to cotton voile, lawn or poplin.

Frequently asked questions

Does viscose shrink every time you wash it?

Most shrinkage happens in the first one or two washes. After that, a viscose dress washed cold and dried flat should stay close to its size. Repeated hot washes or dryer cycles can keep shrinking it, though, so stick to the same gentle routine every time.

Is viscose the same as rayon?

Yes, more or less. Viscose is the most common type of rayon, and the two names are used interchangeably on labels, with "rayon" more common in the US and "viscose" in the UK and Europe. Modal and lyocell are also types of rayon, made with different processes.

Can you put viscose in the dryer on low heat?

It is best not to. Even low heat combined with tumbling can shrink viscose and leave it puckered. If you are in a hurry, roll the dress in a towel to remove most of the water, then hang it near, not on, a radiator.